It is often forgotten that in centuries past, the Tyrrhenian Sea was a resource of the utmost importance for Rome. When people imagine the old city, they tend to think of the appearance of settlements on the seven hills and bridges over the Tiber, but hardly ever of the sea. As the modern city continues to expand gradually westwards, however, the ancient relationship with the sea may soon be revived.
Our virtual trip down the Tiber from the center of the city to the mouth of the river might even prefigure actual developments destined to take place in the future. As we sail around the broad curves that the river traces in the center of the city, we are offered a fresh prospect of the beauties of Rome.
We start our journey at a point not far from the ancient port of Ripetta, at Ponte Sant'Angelo, the bridge rendered famous by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who sculpted ten angels on its balustrade, each bearing a symbols of Christ's Passion. As we head downstream, we see the Vatican and the Janiculum hill to our left, and fine 16th-century buildings on the right banks of Lungotevere dei Sangallo and Lungotevere dei Tebaldi.
Navigating below the arches of Ponte Sisto, built at the behest of Sixtus IV (1471-1484) to join Trastevere with the Regola district, we now move towards what seems to be the prow of an approaching ship, the foremost tip of the Tiber Island. The ancient Romans designed the island to exalt its remarkable resemblance to a ship. The island has also long been associated with healing. In ancient Rome, it was consecrated to the cult of Aesculapius, god of medicine, and it is now home to one of the major hospitals of the city.
Passing by the Broken Bridge (Ponte Rotto), a relic of ancient Rome, we notice a sudden change in the scenery as we move out of Renaissance and baroque Rome. On the left is the working-class district of Testaccio and, further downstream, the former slaughterhouse (ex-Mattatoio), which serves as a fine example of how to fuse functionality with aesthetic elegance. Next to it is the Foro Boario, which is currently used for artistic and cultural happenings.
A little further downstream brings us into the middle of a vast ex-industrial zone consisting of disused river quays and a gasworks.
After leaving Rome, the river wends slowly westwards to arrive at the ancient archaeological site of Ostia Antica. Until the third century, Ostia was a port town, but as the sea receded, its importance diminished. It was finally abandoned forever in 1557 after the Tiber burst its banks and caused a disastrous flood.
The Tiber then branches into a Y-shape as it reaches the present-day port of Fiumicino, an active fishing village as well as a favorite tourist spot and the end of our trip down the river.
