The Villa Borghese has always been a pleasure ground, initially designed for enjoyment by the papal Borghese family in 1605 and later opened to the public in the early 20th century. As well as gardens, lakes and follies to stroll among, the Villa has a zoo; the elegant Piazza di Siena where the International Horse show is held in early May; and three important museums. The Museo Borghese, housed in the original villa, is undergoing massive restoration and most of its collection of art treasures are on show at San Michele di Ripa (near Porta Portese) but the ground floor galleries are open and the sculpture collection includes some exquisite early works by Bernini. Villa Giulia, also built for a papal family, houses a vast collection of art and artefacts from the elegant and sophisticated pre-roman Etruscan civilisation. The third museum, the Gallery of Modern Art, includes an interesting collection of modern and contemporary Italian works.
To the south of Villa Borghese are the Pincio gardens with good views over the Centro Storico, and the 18th century Casina Valadier with its outdoor restaurant and tea-room. Below the Pincio is Piazza del Popolo, for years the main entrance into Rome. Here are the churches of Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesano, which look like twins but aren't Santa Maria in Montesano has an oval dome squeezed into its smaller site. Santa Maria del Popolo has two Caravaggio works as well as the Chigi Chapel, designed by Raphael.
