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District of Rome

Aventino and Testaccio

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

The zone which takes in the Aventino maggiore, or greater Aventine, and the San Saba neighborhood, also known as the "little Aventino", was settled later than the other areas of ancient Rome. During the imperial age, with the transfer of the port to Ostia, the original humble settlement was gradually transformed into an area of luxurious patrician villas and baths. In the Middle Ages the zone was practically abandoned and turned over to farmland, interspersed with convent buildings and fortifications. Its population began to rise again in the early 20th century, partly as a consequence of reclamation work in the area around the Baths of Caracalla: the San Saba Institute of Public Housing built its first groups of homes, after which numerous luxury apartments were built, for the most part on top of an extremely rich archeological area. Today this is an elegant and peaceful residential zone. Testaccio - traditionally a workers' neighborhood - is entirely different in character. Originally sparsely populated, as a result of the malarial infections that used to plague the area, Testaccio subsequently became a popular location for games and sports and in the 19th century was the scene of many festivals, linked in particular to the grape harvest. There were numerous inns and drinking houses, created from caverns dug into Mount Testaccio back in the 17th century: now the inns have been replaced by restaurants and night spots and the neighborhood is one of Rome's liveliest night time venues.

NOT TO BE MISSED

The Aventine is the site of some of the most important and ancient Christian basilicas - starting with Santa Sabina, built in the fifth century, with its precious portal carved with religious scenes, and continuing with the nearby Santa Prisca, which has a mithraeum dating back to the first and second centuries. The Aventine is also home to the Knights of Malta's impressive priory: this was originally a Benedictine monastery (939) and was masterfully renovated in neoclassical style by G.B. Piranesi in 1764-66. The church of Santa Balbina, mentioned as the "titulus Sanctai Balbinae" as early as 595, is located in the San Saba district. However, there is no question that the great attraction of this area is the Baths of Caracalla, one of the biggest baths complexes of ancient Rome. The baths were begun by the Emperor Caracalla in 212 and remained in use until 537, when the Goths cut the aqueduct that fed the complex.

CURIOUS FACTS

Monte Testaccio, which gives its name to the neighborhood, is an artificial hill 35 meters high, with a circumference of about 850 meters. It grew up over the centuries from the accumulation of "testae": the shards of the amphorae used in ancient times in the district - a busy center for "horrea ed emporium", or store-houses and markets. Most of the shards came from oil amphorae, which could not be re-used and were smashed when finished with.


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